Zenith and Felipe Pantone: A Fusion of High Horology and Digital Art

10th September 2024 Luxfanzine

In the world of luxury watches, collaborations with artists are not uncommon, but few have captured the dynamism of the digital age as effectively as the partnership between Swiss watchmaker Zenith and contemporary artist Felipe Pantone. Since 2020, the Zenith x Felipe Pantone collaboration has evolved into a remarkable intersection of horological precision and modern art, blending the technical mastery of Zenith with Pantone’s unique approach to colour, light, and motion. This article explores the trajectory of Zenith’s innovative watches, leading to the most recent collaboration with Pantone, which has produced some of the most striking timepieces in recent years.

The Legacy of Zenith and its Defy Collection

Zenith has been synonymous with innovation and precision in watchmaking for over 150 years. Known for creating the first automatic chronograph movement, the El Primero in 1969, Zenith consistently pushes the boundaries of mechanical excellence. One of the pillars of Zenith’s modern collection is the Defy series, a bold line of watches that embody the brand’s avant-garde spirit. The Defy collection often showcases Zenith’s technical innovations, such as high-frequency movements and cutting-edge materials, alongside daring designs.

The Defy 21, a standout model introduced in 2017, redefined chronograph precision with its 1/100th second timing capability, powered by the El Primero 9004 movement. Its bold, futuristic aesthetic laid the groundwork for artistic collaborations, signalling Zenith’s willingness to merge horology with contemporary cultural expressions. This spirit of innovation made the Defy series the ideal canvas for an artist like Felipe Pantone, whose work revolves around the themes of transformation, digitalisation, and vibrant visual effects.

Who is Felipe Pantone?

Felipe Pantone, an Argentinian-Spanish artist, has risen to prominence with a distinct artistic style that bridges the physical and digital worlds. Born in Buenos Aires and based in Valencia, Pantone’s art blends graffiti, kinetic art, and digital design, resulting in a visual language that reflects the speed and intensity of the modern technological landscape. His use of color gradients, geometric patterns, and optical effects creates dynamic artworks that seem to shift and morph depending on the viewer’s perspective.

Pantone’s artistic trajectory has seen him work on large-scale public installations, murals, and interactive sculptures, gaining him global recognition in the contemporary art world. His signature style, often described as “ultradynamic” or “futuristic,” is rooted in the aesthetics of the digital age—pixelation, glitch effects, and vibrant neon colours that evoke the dawn of the internet era. Pantone’s work resonates with a generation that grew up amidst rapid technological change, making him an ideal collaborator for a brand like Zenith, which also thrives on innovation and future-oriented designs.

The Beginnings of the Zenith x Felipe Pantone Collaboration

The collaboration between Zenith and Felipe Pantone began in 2020, when the artist was commissioned to create a large-scale work on the façade of Zenith’s Manufacture building in Le Locle, Switzerland. This initial partnership was a symbolic merging of tradition and modernity, as Pantone’s vibrant, digital-inspired design contrasted with the classical architecture of Zenith’s headquarters. This collaboration set the stage for what would become a series of limited-edition watches, each showcasing Pantone’s unique artistic vision within the framework of Zenith’s technical craftsmanship.

The first watch born from this collaboration was the Defy 21 Felipe Pantone in 2021. Limited to just 100 pieces, this watch featured a skeletonised dial that displayed Pantone’s signature chromatic gradients and geometric patterns. The dial and movement components were treated with iridescent coatings, creating a spectrum of colours that changed with the angle of the light. The Defy 21 Felipe Pantone was an instant success, selling out quickly and becoming a sought-after collector’s item. This initial success laid the foundation for future collaborations, as both Zenith and Pantone realised the potential of merging their respective expertise.

Defy 21 Double Tourbillon and Defy Extreme: Pushing the Boundaries

Building on the success of the first collaboration, Zenith and Pantone continued to push the boundaries of watch design with the Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone, a one-of-a-kind piece created for the OnlyWatch 2021 charity auction. This unique timepiece featured a double tourbillon movement housed in a sapphire case, allowing the wearer to fully appreciate the intricate mechanics of the watch. Pantone’s artistic touch was evident in the color treatments applied to the tourbillon cages and other movement components, creating a vibrant, almost futuristic aesthetic. The watch fetched a record-breaking price for Zenith at the auction, solidifying the partnership’s status as one of the most innovative in the luxury watch world.

In 2022, the collaboration continued with the release of the Defy Extreme Felipe Pantone. This model took the bold, futuristic design of the Defy 21 and amplified it, with a more rugged, angular case and enhanced water resistance. The watch’s dial featured Pantone’s signature geometric patterns and iridescent colours, while the movement’s bridges were treated with a rainbow PVD coating, creating a dynamic interplay of light and colour. The Defy Extreme was another limited edition, and like its predecessors, it was met with enthusiastic demand from collectors.

The 2024 Defy Skyline Tourbillon: A New Chapter

In September 2024, Zenith and Felipe Pantone unveiled their most recent collaboration, the Defy Skyline Tourbillon. This limited edition of 100 pieces represents a new chapter in the partnership, as it marks the first time Pantone has worked on a Defy Skyline model, a relatively new addition to Zenith’s lineup. The Defy Skyline series is characterized by its architectural case design and precision movements, making it a fitting canvas for Pantone’s digital-inspired artistry.

The Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone features a 41mm stainless steel case, with a tourbillon visible through the dial. The dial itself is a work of art, featuring a mirror-like finish with laser-etched iridescent highlights. The hour markers and hands are coated with Pantone’s signature rainbow PVD finish, creating a mesmerizing effect as the watch catches the light. This timepiece is powered by Zenith’s El Primero 3630 movement, which beats at an impressive 10 times per second, showcasing the brand’s technical prowess.

What sets this watch apart from previous collaborations is its more minimalist approach. While previous models featured skeletonized dials that exposed much of the movement, the Defy Skyline Tourbillon opts for a more subtle, refined design, with the focus on the interplay between light and color. Pantone himself has described the watch as a “masterpiece of high horology,” combining simplicity with sophistication.

Innovation and Art

The collaboration between Zenith and Felipe Pantone is a testament to the power of combining two seemingly disparate worlds—high horology and contemporary art. Over the past few years, this partnership has produced some of the most visually striking and technically impressive timepieces in the luxury watch market. Zenith’s commitment to innovation, both in terms of movement technology and design, aligns perfectly with Pantone’s artistic exploration of colour, light, and digital aesthetics.

As the collaboration continues to evolve, it serves as a reminder that watchmaking, at its highest level, is not just about precision and craftsmanship, but also about creativity and pushing the boundaries of design. The Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone is the latest chapter in this ongoing story, and it will be exciting to see where Zenith and Pantone take their partnership next. Whether you are a watch enthusiast, an art lover, or simply someone who appreciates bold, innovative design, this collaboration is one that continues to captivate and inspire.